The Dos and Don’ts of Concealing Under Eye Dark Circles

Did you watch this season’s Project Runway All-Stars? As they neared the finale, the designers were taken to the Hearst Tower to meet with the editor of Marie-Claire. I wasn’t there to meet an editor, but recently did some men’s grooming for a video shoot there. I’m only mentioning it from Project Runway because I love that beautiful building and hope you have seen it too (even if only on TV).Anyway, most men don’t want makeup, so my job is usually to make sure their hair and skin look good and they are camera-ready. But like women, even non-makeup wearing men ask about what to do with under eye dark circles. It’s tricky because if you need coverage but don’t want to look like you’re wearing makeup, application has to be just right. So if dark circles and puffiness are a concern for you, here are some makeup application Dos and Don’ts: DO

Start by applying a de-puffing eye cream and let it absorb into skin. A lot eye creams contain cucumber and caffeine and both are said to reduce dark circles/puffiness. Apparently, drinking a lot of caffeine is bad for dark circles, but putting it on your skin is good for reducing them! Try Origins No Puffery. Honestly, I completely forgot about this product until just now. When I was with Origins, I remember how people would panic when they could not find their No Puffery. Panic! I've never had a problem with dark circles or puffy eyes so cannot personally attest to its wonders - but I have seen other people worship this product.

Use a good under eye concealer brush. A good brush helps you “paint” dark circles away. Using fingers is much more difficult because it’s harder to be precise and get concealer exactly how you need it so it looks smooth and natural. I have several concealer brushes, but bareMinerals Maximum Coverage Concealer Brush is one of my favorites. Sometimes the bristles on concealer and foundation brushes separate and make application difficult. This one doesn't.

Apply a peachy-pink/salmon shade of concealer. Why this shade works so well I don’t know, but it does. Since you don’t want concealer to show on skin, make sure it’s the right shade. Sometimes if the peachy/salmon shade doesn’t completely “disappear” on skin I use a slightly lighter concealer to blend it in. But, if you're not a makeup artist with all different shades at your disposal, you can also just use a small bit of your foundation over the concealer to blend it in. I like Eve Pearl's Salmon Concealer. 

Finish with a tiny bit of sheer powder on top of the concealer to set it. I always use the powder from Laura Mercier Undercover Pot. It has two shades of concealer and a little bit of powder you can use on top.

DON’T

Don't use too much concealer. You don’t want to trade one concern for another – if you put too much concealer in an effort to lighten dark circles it can get cake-y and creasy. A little concealer will still lighten dark circles – even if they are not completely covered, it's still better than looking cake-y and creasey. If you are 18 or 20 or whatever age under eye skin is always perfectly smooth, you can probably use more than most people. Otherwise, too much is worse than too little.

Don’t use too much powder. Too much powder can also make the concealer look cake-y and unnatural. A very light dusting is just enough.

Don’t rub or be too rough with the eye area skin. Skin around the eyes is more fragile and more easily damaged. Be gentle to yourself, especially in the eye area.

Don’t forget about prevention. Like everything with health and beauty, taking care of yourself is essential. Most people are aware – from first hand experience – that dark circles and puffiness often are the result of stress and lack of sleep. So cut back on the partying!

Beauty at Carnegie Hall

If you’re Asian, you were probably required by your parents to learn either violin or piano. Mine was piano. And whenever I complained I was told, “You’ll thank us someday.” Which is true, although I only lasted 4 years and probably would be thanking them more had I lasted longer. But still I am grateful I can at least play a couple songs, such as Fur Elise and Moonlight Sonata—and if I really try I can still read a note or two. Which is also why my little Lucy will carry on to play either violin or piano too. Ha! And so the stereotype continues. While I don’t know the extent of her parental pressure, Xiang Wang clearly met and exceeded any standard put before her. Of a 2008 recital she did at Carnegie Hall, a New York Times reviewer wrote: “Even for the most gifted young pianist, it takes a lot to be noticed” and described her has having “an estimable grasp of pianistic color…an ability to maintain and illuminate a strand of melody within the thickest of textures.” Exactly what all this means I am not sure but I do understand she’s a recognized talent around the world.

We spent the day doing a photo shoot for the cover of Xiang’s upcoming CD. Because she normally wears very little makeup and was wary of it, I used just enough to emphasize her features.

Here’s what I used:

Powder. Laura Mercier Pressed Setting Powder applied lightly to smooth and matte-ify. Xiang’s skin was not oily, but any skin type can look shiny in photographs.

Eye Shadow. The darker shade of Clinique’s Colour Surge Eye Shadow Duo in Like Mink from lash to crease and blended up. Tip: If you have trouble applying or blending eye shadow, Clinique is a good choice because their shadows are not highly pigmented so color can be built gradually.

Eye Liner. YSL’s Waterproof Eye Pencil in Black applied right on top and bottom lash lines to emphasize her eye shape and make lashes look fuller. For her eyebrows, I used the same liner by applying a swatch on the back of my hand (to use as a palette) and an angled Eye Brow Brush to gently brush on the natural shape of her eyebrows.

Lashes. Short individual false lashes applied on top lash line to create thicker, longer lashes. While it might sound as if fake lashes could never look natural, when applied correctly individual falsies look more natural than mascara. Xiang looked quite alarmed when I said I was using false lashes but as you can see it looks very natural.

Blush. Bare Escentuals Bare Minerals Blush blended to sculpt and emphasize her high cheekbones.

Lip Gloss. philosophy Raspberry Sorbet Lip Shine with a lip pencil to add just a touch of color and shine.

This shoot was with photographer Chris Lee* and hairstylist Kristan Serafino at Steinway Hall on 57^th Street. If ever you are in NYC and play piano or even just love piano, go visit. As formal and imposing and museum-like as it appears, the staff is easy-going and welcoming and you’re free to wander through the building to play the many different pianos in the various rooms. And while some of the world’s best pianists play there, no one even cares if that for you it’s just playing Fur Elise.

*Note: I think Chris would appreciate that, with the exception of the beautiful image of Xiang in blue, I let you know that none of the other images posted here are his. Most of them are taken by an amateur (me) on my iPhone.